Saturday, July 20, 2019

LOST IN A BIRD PARADISE


LOST IN A BIRD PARADISE

Kokduwa island Sri Lanka

In Pakrama Samudra, Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka



Travel from Colombo to Polonnaruwa (216 km) is a fairly direct route towards the north-east of the island. It takes about 5 to 6 hours of driving with brief breaks.  Polonnaruwa is on Highway A11 (to Batticaloa) that forks off A6 (road to Trincomalee) at Habarana.




Entering Polonnaruwa town on A11, pass over the bridge over the irrigation channel, proceed another 200 m and make a U-turn at the round-about, return 200 m and make a left just before the bridge and proceed 150 m up a small rise to the crest of the bund (dam).  Turn left onto Bund Road;  Lake Parakrama will be on the right (west) of the bund.  Proceed southward on the Bund road for about 2 km, passing three hotels (the Sudu Araliya, Village and Seruwa), until after another 1 km  you come to the junction marked by a water tower.  Turn right at the sign board “Primate Center Lodge” after 50 m make a left and follow a winding path through the thick forest to the camp.  At Polonnaruwa the destination known as the “monkey camp”.

The stay at the 'monkey camp' is a unique and very special experience. The camp has accommodation from which you can visit Polonnaruwa and surrounding area; more than this though is the opportunity to join educational tours learning about the monkeys and having the opportunity to join the research team early in the morning inside Polonnaruwa complex to observe the monkeys.



 The primate centre is a research and conservation station (Smithsonian Primate Research Station). It is a fascinating opportunity to learn about this 30+ year study into monkey social and demographic life. No need to be a scientist! Monkey life is fascinating. The camp is beside the lake where you can swim. 

They also offer opportunities for students and volunteers for longer training stays as well. The food is also delicious - home cooked with care. One room sleeps 3-4 in the Hanuman Bungalow, 2each in Loris and people in 4rooms in the Main Building..





An excursion to Kokduwa will give you the opportunity to interact with the local community and learn about how they live and co-exist with the flora and fauna. Nearly 150 species of birds can be seen at the site, including migrants from the Himalayas.


  The naturalists are expert in locating and identifying the birds in and around Polonnaruwa. A nesting colony of water-birds is within a 20 minute canoe paddle from the monkey camp research station.  You wake up to bird sounds and to macaque calls. Water birds would skim past you when you paddle the canoes in the water. It's fantastic holiday spot.





An experienced naturalist who helps you spot birds and other inhabitants while giving you an in-depth description of the park and its history. By visiting as many habitats, altitudinal zones, and local lesser known hideouts and accommodating different levels of birding interests is geared to ensuring a satisfied and unique experience. Birding enthusiasts will love exploring the island of “Kokduwa” where you will be able to observe and spot various, exotic species of birds.













Birds you can see
The little grebe
Spot billed pelican
Indian cormorant
The oriental darter
Little egret
The great egret
The intermediate egret
The grey heron
The purple heron
The striated heron
The black-crowned night heron
Yellow bittern
The painted stork
The Asian openbill
The black-headed ibis
Eurasian spoonbill
Lesser whistling duck
Black kite
The black-headed ibis
White bellied sea eagle
Common moorhen
Little ring plover
Kentish plover
Lesser sand plover
Greater sand plover
Caspian plover
Red wattled lapwin



Terek sandpiper
Indian stone curlew
Long tailed skua




Prakrama Samudra is a construction built in Polonnaruwa by King Parakramabahu the first who ruled there from 1153 AD to 1153 AD. The Sea of Parakrama or Parakrama Samudra originally consisted of five large reservoirs which relieved the pressure on the main dam. The first reservoir Thopa Vewa already existed in King Parakramabahu’s time having been built in 386 AD. The king had the other large reservoirs included and the entire system expanded. In addition, many smaller reservoirs were built around the primary reservoirs to feed them water and to take away any excess water.
Parakrama Samudra:The Main Reservoirs of the Original Parakrama Samudra
1. Thopa Vewa
2. Eramudu Vewa (Katu Vewa)
3. Dumbuthula Vewa
4. Kalahagala Vewa
5. Bhu Vewa


Sunday, July 14, 2019

EXPLORE THE LAND OF JUMBOS

Safari at Udawalawe National Park, Sri Lanka







The Udawalawe National park which has an acreage of 30,821 hectares, was declared as a National Park on 30 th June 1972 under the Fauna and Flora Protection ordinance. The park lies in the Rathnapura District in Sabaragamuwa Province Monaragala District in Uva Province. It forms the largest conservation area within these districts and largely comprises the lower and the immediate catchments of Udawalawe. The wall we reservoir is situated in the park and the surface area of it at full supply level is about 3405 hectares.
The easiest and quickest approach from Colombo is through Rathnapura, Pelmadulla on the Ebilipitya road. At Thimbolketiya turn left and Udawalawe junction to take the road to ThanamalWila. The main entrance to the park is at the Udawalawe, Thanamalwila road about 11km from Udawalawe Junction which is the southern boundary of the park. The park is therefore only 115 miles from Colombo.





The most prominent feature is the Kalthote escarpment and spectacular Diyawinne fall to the north of Ulagala and in the west of the park. The park is situated in the dry zone. There is a short dry period in February-March. Sometimes that period is prolonged from mid-May to the end of September. This is menses with inter monsoon in September. This is followed by Northeast monsoon rain from November to mid-January. Due to conventional activity, the rainfall can occur from April-May. The mean annual rainfall is about 1524mm. The annual average temperature is about 32 ° C and it can be uniform throughout the year.
This National Park is very popular among visitors for elephants because they can be observed even at midday. Herds of elephants can be seen along the river during the dry season which is usually between May and September. Birdlife is in plenty, but once again difficult to observe when on the ground due to the tall grass.








Udawalawe National Park is one of the best places to see Raptors in Sri Lanka and afford excellent opportunities for photography. Endemic birds include the Sri Lankan junglefowlSri Lanka spurfowlSri Lanka green pigeonSri Lanka grey hornbillSri Lanka wood shrike, and Sri Lanka swallow. Among the other bird species seen are Spot-billed pelicanLittle cormorantGrey heronIndian pond heronCattle egretGreat egretLittle egretIntermediate egretPainted storkWoolly-necked storkYellow-wattled lapwingGreen bee-eaterCrested treeswift. In forested areas, Sirkeer and Blue-faced malkoha are found.
Butterflies at Udawalawe National Park. (Wikipedia)










Satin trees in the park attract butterflies: beautiful Papilio casino, Delias eucharisEuploea core, and many ‘Yellows and Whites’ Papilio polytes. In the riverine forest areas, Graphium
 Sarpedon is seen. Reptiles at Udawalawe National Park

While the crocodiles doze off on the banks of the reservoir, the water monitor lizards abound in the park.
Udawalawe is undoubtedly the best place in Sri Lanka to see wild Asian Elephants throughout the year: there are about 500 elephants in the park and they often roam in herds of up to 100. Udawalawe National Park is unique in terms of consistency in several elephants roaming the park: it has no seasonal variation in herds of elephants. The best hours to visit the parking area are in the mornings and evenings. The late evening also affords the photographic opportunities in the backdrop of the loveliest sunsets.







Keeping company to the herds of elephants, the main attraction of the park is the Water Buffalo, Wildboar, Spotted Deer, Sambur Deer, Jackal, Samber, Black-naped hare, mongooses, bandicoots, foxes, s the endemic Toque Macaque, and Gray Langers. Sighting a Leopard and other smaller cats like Fishing cats & Jungle cats would be a bonus.


The drive through the park can be bumpy and rough and it’s not uncommon for jeeps to be vying for the best spots when an animal is spotted. You are not allowed to drive up close to the animals or harass them. Travelers are not allowed to get down from their vehicles to observe or take photos.  Safari Jeeps are available at the entrance of the park. Ticket issued at the entrance office.  





A Udawalawe National Park Safari lasts about three hours long. During that time, you can see a lot of wildlife, including lots of elephants. The elephants came close to the jeep to say hello as a bonus. It’s an incredible experience to just see them hanging out being happy elephants in their natural habitat.






Saturday, July 13, 2019

FAITH WILL TAKE YOU TO THE TOP


Climbing Adam's Peak in Sri Lanka Pilgrimage to 

Sri Pada



Sri Pada is Sri Lanka's sacred mountain, it is very unique climbing that mountain hikers will never experience anywhere in the world. Every step to discovering history, culture, and scenic beauty will be a marvelous experience for the adventure-seeking traveler.

(The most challenging climb to pilgrimage is to worship the sacred footprint of the Buddha. Watch full video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6ziy3eo6yY&t=8s )

The Sri Pada mountain is situated 16km northeast of Rathnapura in Sabaragamuwa province of Sri Lanka. It is 2243m in height above sea level and about 27 km (16miles from the bottom to the top by the foot of the pointed peak.

The mountain has many names related to its beliefs. Samanalakanda refers to the butterfly's mountain that is recurrent the mountain during the annual butterflies' migration to the region. The Sinhala Buddhists believe that the peak holds the footprint of Gautama Buddha hence the name "Sri Pada".
The deity Saman who was a Buddhist in those days invited the Buddha to his region and on that visit, the Buddha was believed to be climbed to the top of the mountain. People believe that the deity Saman protects the pilgrims throughout the climb.



Sri Lanka is the home of numerous species of magnificent butterflies and once a year they form into a long chain, sometimes consisting of hundreds of these creatures, and go through the countryside. Legend has it that butterflies were going to Sri Pada to pay homage to the Lord Buddha’s footprint. Hindu tradition that of Hanuman or Shiva and In some Islamic and Christian traditions that of Adam, or that St. Thomas.


Access to the mountain is possible by 6 trails: Ratnapura-Palabaddala, Hatton-Nallathanni, Kuruwita-Erathna, Murraywatte, Mookuwatte, and Malimboda. The Nallathanni & Palabaddala routes are most favored by those undertaking the climb, while the Kuruwita-Erathna trail is used less often; these trails are linked to major cities or towns by bus, accounting for their popular use. The Murraywatte, Mookuwatte, and Malimboda routes are hardly used but do intersect with the Palabaddala road midway through the ascent. The usual route taken by most pilgrims is ascent via Hatton and descent via Ratnapura; although the Hatton trail is the steepest, it is also shorter than any of the other trails by approximately five kilometers.




Once one of the starting 'nodes' of Palabadalla, Nallathanni, or Erathna is reached, the rest of the ascent is done on foot through the forested mountainside on the steps built into it. The greater part of the track leading from the base to the summit consists of thousands of steps built in cement or rough stones. The trails are illuminated with electric light, making night-time ascent possible and safe to do even when accompanied by children. Rest stops and wayside shops along the trails serve refreshments and supplies.


The Pilgrimage season runs from Uduwap Poya (December) to Vesak Poya (May reaching its peak mid-season at Medin Poya (March). At this time, there is a constant stream of pilgrims and the top can get very crowded. The busiest period is from January to February. At other times the temple on the summit is unused and between May to October, the peak is obscured by clouds for much of the time.


All of us ought to pace the ascent so that we endure physical stress to avoid exhaustion. Warm clothes should be worn to avoid the chill and catching a cold at the summit after sweating it out during the climb. Approximately 20,000 people scale Adams Peak on weekends during the pilgrimage season. The endless steps can shake the strongest knees and stretching leg muscles before and after a climb is a good idea so that we will not be limping for the next few days.


 Most people make the climb by night to reach the mountain top to watch the “Ira Sevaya”, the sunrise over the sea. The beauty and grandeur of the scenery that the mountain looks down upon are eclipsed by the magic of the sunrise seen from its summit and the resulting perfect triangular shadow was thrown across the plains below. The shadow is visible for only about 10 minutes or so after dawn and such perfection has been recorded for only one other mountain in the world.



Every morning a series of intriguing phenomena can be observed from the summit of Sri Pada. Just before sunrise, everyone will assemble on the eastern side of the summit waiting for the sun. When it appears it seems to leap over the horizon rather than rise gradually. At this moment the more pious people will shout 'Sadhu!' an exclamation meaning 'It is good. The Sinhalese say that the sun is paying homage to the Buddha's footprint. Then everyone will move to the western side of the mountain. Join them and you will see the perfectly triangular shadow of the mountain laying over the landscape. Sometimes if there is a light mist the shadow will appear to stand upright. Within moments, as the sun climbs higher, the shadow will move rapidly towards the base of the mountain and finally disappear. 




The pilgrim does not isolate groups and individuals such as monks, youngsters, families, elders, and people worldwide climb together.  In the past, people pilgrim in a group called ‘Nade’. Group leader named ‘ Nade Gura’. A new pilgrim called ‘Kodukara’ who have to follow certain customs before climbing. They climb only for religious purposes. Those days the journey was quite difficult to make without facilities which the pilgrim benefits from today.



The Sri pada pilgrims follow several traditions of custard oms. At a certain point during the climb, pilgrims pause en route to throwing a threaded needle into the bushes, commemorating the legend that Lord Buddha paused to mend a tear in his robe during his climb. When crossing the Seetha Gangula, a stream about halfway to the summit, pilgrims cleanse themselves with the icy water, which helps refresh them for the final climb. Many devotees recite religious poems as they climb to help them on their arduous journey. 




It takes four to five hours to reach the according to your physical fitness and without any other distraction. Shortly before the summit, there the steps an almost vertical with stairways with handrails, during the height of the season, pilgrims may have to wait in line for as long as half an hour before proceeding to the small platform on the top. 



On the summit of Adam's Peak has located a Shrine, a belfry, and a resting place. The center of attraction is a stone tablet covering the scared footprint of Lord Buddha. Most pilgrims attempt the climb solely to worship the Buddha’s Footprint. Buddhists climb the mountain at least once in their lifetime. 




After completing their worship, pilgrims ring a bell, once for every visit. It is not unusual to hear the bell rung a dozen times or more by devout pilgrims who have made voyages to the holy sites. The sounds of ringing the bell add a spiritual atmosphere. 




The famous footprint itself is housed adjacent to a prayer bell, which is suspended beneath two prostrated stone elephants. When you triumphantly ring the bell to celebrate reaching the summit, the chimes mingle with the pilgrims’ trumpets and drums. 





And as the rising sun exposes gaping valleys, ink-splotch lakes, foaming waterfalls, and the glorious pyramid shadow cast by the peak pans across the plain, it dawns on you that you now have to climb 5,500 steps to get back down again



The sun's rise is real spectacular views are on the opposite side of the platform. The way back in day time you will see what you miss during your climb at night. The breathtaking views of a range of blue mountains running as far as the horizon, the clouds floating around, cool breeze make you feel like walking down from heaven and take away the tiredness for a moment.



While it’s a challenging trail, no technical climbing is involved, just a seemingly endless number of concrete steps to trudge up. You’ll pass septuagenarians climbing in flip-flops, and even barefoot pilgrims forgoing shoes as a gesture of purity and sacrifice. But sports shoes are fine for tourists.



The Sama Chatiya, the World Peace Pagoda. This stupa was built by the famous Japanese Buddhist monk Ven Nichi Fuji in 1976 and is maintained by several Japanese monks. At night there is little to see but during the day the brilliant white stupa stands out dramatically against the vast grey cliff behind it.



Many people find the hardest part is coming down. The endless steps can shake the strongest knees, and if your shoes don’t fit well, you can add in crushed toes and blisters. Walking poles or even just a sturdy stick will make the descent much less jarring on your legs. Take a hat, as the morning sun intensifies quickly.




Whether making the ascent by day or night it can be an arduous climb, so bring only what you are likely to need. There are food and drink stalls all the way up the Hatton path but prices are considerably higher than normal so you might like to bring your own snacks and water. You are likely to be warm during the climb, but you can get very cold while waiting for the sunrise at the summit, so bring warm clothes. If the weather is uncertain an umbrella or raincoat will be useful. A pair of binoculars if you have them will also be most useful.



Anyone who has different religious faiths can climb Adam's Peak and reach the holy place. Whatever religion the tourist believes, their success in climbing the top can be dedicated to God, Adam, Buddha, Saint Thomas, or Shiva



The most challenging climb to pilgrimage is to worship the sacred footprint of the Buddha.

Watch full video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6ziy3eo6yY&t=8s

History


Long before Buddhism came to Sri Lanka in about 246 BCE Sri Pada was revered as the abode of the god called Samanta, or sometimes Saman or Sumana. This local mountain god was destined to go on to great things.
The Theravada Buddhists of Sri Lanka later made Samanta the guardian of their land and their religion. With the rise of Mahayana Buddhism, a movement that began in south India from where it soon spread to the island, Samanta developed into Samantabhadra, one of the four principles bodhisattvas of Mahayana. Like his later manifestation, Samanta is usually depicted crowned and bejeweled, holding a lotus in his right hand and accompanied by a white elephant.

Today there is still a shrine to Samanta on the top of the mountain and another larger one near Ratnapura, some 19 kilometers from its foot. Buddhist devotees who climb the Peak regard God Maha Sumana Saman as their benevolent protector. It is believed that the first person to discover the Sacred Footprint was King Valagambahu (104-76 BC) while he was in exile in the mountain wilderness.

He had been led to the summit of the mountain by a deity in the guise of a stag. Thereafter not only ordinary pilgrims but Royalty with their court retinue paid homage to the Foot Print of the Buddha from ancient times. The Sinhalese kings alone, in their devotion and persistence, made the Peak accessible to the crowds of devotees who annually trekked the mountain.
The first historical mention of Sri Pada comes during the reign of Vijayabahu. It is recorded of this monarch that he, having seen the difficulties undergone by the pilgrims on their way to worship the Buddha’s footprint on Samanthakuta dedicated the village named ‘Gilimale’ to provide for their needs. 
Marco Polo (1254-1324 AD) who visited the Peak in the 14th century remarked that in places flights of steps were out in the rocks but none upwards and towards the summit.
The mountain has been climbed for at least 1000 years. King Vijayabahu (1065-1119 AD) built shelters along its route, work continued by Parakaramabahu the 2nd (1250-1284 AD) who cleared the jungle & built a road & bridges to the mountain. King Nissankamalla (1198 AD-1206 AD) visited the Samanthakuta with his four-fold army and worshiped the Footprint with great devotion. He had re-granted the Village Ambagamuwa and it has been recorded in an inscription found in a cave known as Bhagavalena. He had constructed a concrete slab to protect the Footprint.

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